Eben Page Upd 〈1000+ DIRECT〉
Eben Page is the exception. And that is because he treats the ocean like a mathematician, not a matador. Those who have surfed Mavericks with Page describe him as unnervingly calm. While waves detonate with the force of a freight train, Page doesn't hoot. He doesn't flail. He breathes.
In big-wave surfing, there is a saying: "There are old surfers and there are bold surfers, but there are no old, bold surfers." eben page
And then there is Eben Page.